The art of hair styling: in talk with Kenta Koda

Kenta Koda is a highly accomplished hair stylist with a long and distinguished track record, having worked with top fashion houses, leading magazines, and A-list celebrities. From his early days in Japan to making a name for himself in New York, he has built a successful career in the fashion industry. In this interview, he shares insights into his craft, inspirations, and the stories behind his most memorable projects.

Your work has graced many fashion editorials and high-profile fashion brand campaigns. What led you to pursue a career in hair styling? Can you share a bit about your journey from the beginning to where you are now?

When I was in my twenties, working at a hair salon in a rural area of Japan, I actively participated in haircut competitions and seminars to improve my skills. At the same time, I was inspired by international fashion magazines and runway shows and dreamed of being part of that world. Twelve years ago, I moved to New York, gradually building connections and expanding my work in shows, advertisements, magazines, and styling for celebrities. Now, I am represented by the agency L’Atelier in New York and primarily work with high-fashion clients worldwide.

How would you describe your approach to hair styling? What key elements do you focus on when creating a look?

Balance. While I sometimes emphasize texture, length, weight, or color in my work, I believe the most important factor is whether the overall look suits the model. The harmony between the hair, photography, clothing, and makeup is crucial. For example, for a Vogue shoot in August 2018, I used a wig to cover the model`s eyes, creating a hairstyle that resembled an abstract painting — beautiful, ambiguous, and visually intriguing for the viewer.

You’ve worked on many high-profile projects. Can you share one moment or collaboration that truly stands out in your career and why it was so significant for you?

It would be my work with Alexander Wang. Since 2021, I have been regularly involved in shoots for e-commerce and social content. Their direction is always very clear, and extreme attention is paid to every detail of the hairstyle — individual strands, length, texture, and volume. We make multiple fine adjustments to perfect the look.

This type of work requires not only technical skills, but also the ability to adapt and respond flexibly on the spot. My collaboration with Alexander Wang has elevated my technical expertise and provided a platform where I can make the most of my experience.

When considering a new project, what draws you in? Are there certain factors you look for before starting a collaboration?

Creative direction. In a project, everyone must share the same goal. My role is just one part of the bigger picture, but when there is a clear, shared vision — whether it`s visual or conceptual — it results in something strong and beautiful.

For example, in May 2018, I worked on a NIKE advertisement featuring tennis player Sloane Stephens and an influencer model. The shoot was inspired by 1990s downtown New York street culture, and I believe it produced some truly iconic images.

Tell us about your creative process. How do you go from an initial idea to a finished hairstyle?

I always jot down ideas and take photos. From there, I experiment with wigs and mannequins to create prototypes. When it comes to an actual shoot, I assess whether the hairstyle aligns with the direction, the model, makeup, wardrobe, and photography, adjusting the details by adding or subtracting elements as needed.

Of all the looks you’ve created, are there any that stand out as personal favorites or memorable moments?

One of my most memorable works was for Shadowplay Magazine (September 2024). It was my first time working with model Juli, who already had incredibly beautiful hair. After discussing with the photographer and director, we decided to shoot without altering her natural hairstyle. That experience reaffirmed my belief that a beautiful hairstyle is not necessarily something that takes hours to create — it can exist naturally.

When it comes to hair care, what’s your go-to routine or product line to maintain both your clients’ and your own hair?

Whenever I work with models or celebrities, I always use heat protection and leave-in treatment before starting. Since I frequently use blow dryers, curling irons, and styling products, my priority is to minimize hair damage and ensure the hair remains in good condition for the next job.

How do you feel your cultural background in Japan influences your work in New York? And how does the diverse fashion environment in New York City inspire and challenge your work?

Respect and professionalism. From a young age, I was taught to show gratitude and respect to others, regardless of who they are. New York is an incredibly exciting city that constantly surprises me. Even after living here for over ten years, I continue to learn and grow from its dynamic environment.

For someone starting out in the industry, what advice would you give aspiring young hair stylists?

This is something I always remind myself as well — believe in what you find beautiful and pursue it relentlessly.

What’s next? Are there any future plans or upcoming projects you’d like to share with us?

I always want to continue creating work that inspires the younger generation. My work for Alexander Wang’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection will be featured on their website and social media, and this summer, I will also be participating in an advertising shoot for Macy’s.